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Sold as one unit. (1 unit = each.) 15 amps, 120V. 8,000 RPM/16,000 CPM. 12-1/8" x 26" table w/ extensions. Patented cutter head adjustment system raises and lowers on four large, precision ground columns. Easy to read English/metric scale for making fast depth of cut settings. Board thickness: 6" max, 3/16" min. Width: 12-1/2". Depth of cut: 3/16" max. Length of stock: 12" min. Feed rate: 26.2 ft/min. 2 double edged reversible, quick change knives. Adjustable infeed/outfeed tables and low friction, stainless steel base provide a large smooth surface for moving stock through planer. Stock roller allows for stock to be passed over the planer. Replacement blade SKU # 2053049. UL listed. Boxed. Manufacturer number: TP305. SKU #: 2005130. Country of origin: China. Distributed by Porter-Cable/Delta.
Technical DetailsSee more technical details
By Stephen King (Thaxton, VA United States)
I recently purchased a Delta 22-540 knowing that it had been damaged. The main casting holding the cutter head was broken on one side where the adjustment screw goes through. How I repaired that does not matter since I am writing this to show how to remove the bearings.
After the unit is stripped down you will have the casting that holds the cutter head and bearings, the four holes for the guide bars and the nuts for the adjusting screws. Remove the three cap screws holding the bearing retainer on the pulley end of the cutter head. Block the casting in a vertical position, (I used a low work table) with the pulley end down. You need enough clearance for the cutter bar to move about one inch. A couple of short two by fours worked for me. Set the 2 X 4s on edge as close to the pulley as possible. This gives good support. Use a section of 1 ½ inch pipe, or a large socket if you have one to drive the bearing out. The pipe or socket should rest on the outer race of the bearing but should not bind on the casting. It is fairly easy then to drive the bearing, along with the entire cutter head out of the casting.
Alternately you can use a brass drift pin with at least a ¼ inch face to drive the bearing out. Use firm blows but avoid really hammering on it. Tap the bearing once or twice then shift a third of the way around the bearing, tap again and shift another third of the way around. Continue this until the assembly drops free. You should be able to "feel" the bearing shift but don't try shifting it too far all at once.
Once free of the casting a standard wheel puller can be used to remove the bearing, either one or both. Of course, the pulley has to be removed if that bearing is the one to be replaced,
Don't have a press to reinstall the bearings. I didn't need to change the bearings but to reinstall the cutter head and bearing in the main casting I put a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the outer race of the bearing and inside the housing for the bearing in the main casting. Then I placed the cutter head in the freezer and while it was chilling down I put the main casting in the oven. With the oven at 400 deg for about 20 minutes and after the cutter head had chilled for 45 minutes, (I didn't want to take chances) I was able to slip the assembly together using a rubber mallet. Plan the hot and cold parts. Have plenty of rags, gloves ect. handy and it wouldn't hurt to have a helper to steady the casting.
This method works for all sorts of bearing instillation. I have been using it for years and even put a ring gear on a flywheel for a friend using this procedure. Just take your time and plan the , what I call hot and cold work, so there is no loss of time. No big deal if you don't get it all the way the first time. Drive it back out and do it over. Give it a try, I think you will be pleased.
By Thomas J A (St Marys, PA United States)
I have owned my 540 for about 2 years and have run at least 2000bd ft through it. The unit has seen oak, cherry, maple, pine The planer performed well on all. The steel knives do dull fairly quick, but are reasonable to change if your careful. Snipe is a problem with the short outfeed tables but can be minimized using caution. This is not a high production machine and requires extra care, but at [asignificantly lower price] than its DeWalt counterpart, I feel it is an ideal addition to any personal woodworking shop.
By N. E Smith (Mandeville, LA United States)
I have been using my 22-540 as a serious amateur cabinet and furniture maker for about seven years. I would hesitate to guess how many feet of wood have passed through the planer but it is a lot.
The Delta 22-540 performed well over the years but a few weeks ago a project came to a sudden stop when the bearings on the cutter head overheated and seized. I found that replacements are available but after a near total disassembly, I found that I could not remove the bearings from the main frame casting. Quite a disappointment.
So now I must choose a replacement. The winner is the DeWalt DW 733 even at the additional ($$$)cost over a replacement 22-540.
The Delta 22-540 does have a nasty habit of setting creep, I control this by blocking the handle or simply holding it with one hand while the lumber is running. I trust the four-post clamp of the new models will cure this problem. I didn't stay with Delta and their 13" 22-580K because of the lock handle design and the useless two-speed feature. Thank you to all of you who wrote reviews on the various planers. And, thank you to Amazon for publishing them. The final decision was easy to make when comparing the DeWalt and the Delta side by side in our local Home Center.Will the DW 733 live up to my expectations? I will let you know in about seven years.
By Darrin G Black (Columbus Ms USA)
I have owned my 540 for about 3years and have run at least 1000bd ft through it. Although mostly cedar, the unit has seen oak, hickory, osage orange, and some kind of black african wood that was hard as steel. The planer performed well on all. The steel knives do dull fairly quick, but are reasonable to change if your careful. I contacted Delta about a year ago and they did offer carbide double edge knives, but [at a muchhigher price], I'll get by with the steel ones. Snipe is a problem with the short outfeed tables but can be minimized using caution. Some of the other reviews appear somewhat harsh, and are not entirely unfounded. This is not a high production machine and probably requires extra care, but at [asignificantly lower price] than its DeWalt counterpart, I feel it is an ideal addition to any personal woodworking shop.
I have had this planer for a year and it has worked OK. Snipe is a problem but can be corrected by shimming the in/out tables. One HUGE problem though, when I tried to change the knives for the first time, the little hex screws that release the knives round off. This happens even if you use a real wrench instead of the cheezey one they provide. And when the wrench slips, your knuckles go right into the blade. Once any of the 14 screws rounds off, that knife cannot be removed. And since the screws are buried in the cutting head you can't get any other kind of tool in help release the rounded screw. Along with most other models, the 12-1/2" Delta model has a MUCH better design. Now I have to take mine in and have it repaired so I would have been money ahead by buying a better model.
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